Situated about 120km northwest of Santiago, Valparaíso is the second biggest city in Chile and the Capital of the Fifth Region. It remains the country’s principal port and proud naval base. It is in itself a rich collection of contrasts and is a lively, bustling centre with plenty to keep the visitor entertained for many days.
The old-seaport atmosphere of Valparaiso is best appreciated by wandering around for an hour or two in some of the old neighborhoods. The steep and winding alleys lend the town a unique atmosphere.
Valpo, as it is affectionately known, retains a commercial feel which isn’t found in the affluent playgrounds of Viña del Mar to the north. The city - easily Chile’s most distinctive - occupies a narrow strip of coastal land rising up into the hills, or 'cerros' where the residential neighbourhoods are to be found. Each cerro has its own distinctive character - however the precise geography of the old city with its steep footpaths, blind alleys and switchback-hairpin streets can remain baffling to all but the oldest Valpo resident.
In 2003 Valparaíso was declared a World Heritage Site, due to its historical importance, natural beauty, original architecture and layout. An inviting maze of cobblestone streets and 17 tram-equiped hills make Valparaiso a joy to wander.
Sprinkled throughout the hillside of Valparaiso are the famous ascensores. These antique furnicular elevators were created in the late 1800's and early 1900's in order to help people living in the hills get back and forth from the commercial area below.
There are 15 ascensors still working today, all with an angle of ascension from between 30 and 45 degrees.
The somewhat basic wooden cabins permit light to filter in between the cracks - not the most sturdy construction, but with the scenery, they lend enormous charm to the sights of the city.
These hills themselves are a fascinating place to spend the day - head for Cerro Concepción (accessible from Ascensor Turri across from the Reloj Turri in the old city )for some of the most interesting walks. There are plenty of restaurants and accommodation in this area too. Below is a typical Cerro Concepción street.
The commercial zone between the hills and the sea is known as El Plan and contains most of the city’s monuments as well as the plazas and shopping centres.
Head to Plaza Matriz (below right) on the west side of El Plan to experience the historic centre of the city - plenty of colonial and republican architecture remains. As you head east following the contour of the bay to the north the there is plenty to see and experience including the Palacio Lyon which houses the natural history museum, the lively, buzzing atmosphere of the shops and cafes in Plaza Victoria and the city’s largest church - Iglesia Catedral de Valparaíso.
Many would maintain that Valpo is the cultural heart of Chile and from the bohemian feel of its barrios, its art museums and lively student life to the chance to watch the local fútbol team in action - Santiago Wanderers - there genuinely is something for everyone here.
For an experience unique to Valpo, book ahead in order to spend at least one night in one of the hospedajes (guest houses) situated among the scenic cerros.
Travel south of Valparaiso to visit a number of very attractive resort towns.
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